Toghu Tee, Cameroon Grassfields Emblem

Modèle portant le tee noir Toghu, médaillon imprimé effet broderie aux dents de tigre du toghu, Cameroon Grassfields collection par Bana Bilaka

Toghu · Grassfields Tee No. 02

£32.90

Size S M L XL 2XL 3XL

On the black velvet of the toghu runs a border of sharp V points: the tiger teeth, the signature of the great ceremonial cloth of the Cameroon Grassfields. Unlike the motifs reserved for dignitaries, this border belongs to everyone. In 2012, the Cameroonian delegation walked into the opening ceremony of the London Games dressed in toghu: the border of a kingdom became the emblem of a nation. The Toghu emblem carries that story in an embroidery-style print medallion on a deep black tee: three rows of tiger teeth in laterite red, warm gold and burnt ochre, climbing like steps. A border became a flag.

What it means

The toghu is the prestige garment of the Grassfields kingdoms of Cameroon: black velvet where red and gold thread is laid by hand, motif after motif. The true toghu is still made by hand today, and Bamenda remains a living home of that apprenticeship. Since London 2012 the toghu has spoken for the whole country, worn by athletes, ministers and brides far beyond the Grassfields. This tee is a tribute in stitch-effect print, never a copy of the craft; the tiger-teeth border it celebrates also runs around every medallion of this collection, as its signature.

After the textile and royal traditions of the Cameroon Grassfields: Bitoh et al., Art and Design Review, 2023 (toghu symbols); The Metropolitan Museum of Art and Michael Backman Ltd (ndop technique); Wikipedia “Bamum script”, Yale University Library and African History Extra (the Bamum script, 1896 to 1910); Open Restitution Africa (the return of Ngonnso, announced 27 June 2022); Voix des Jeunes (toghu, ndop, Bamenda).

Part of Collection 03 · Grassfields · The Signature. Emblem No. 02. Dikenga opened the house, the Manden gave it its law, the Grassfields give it its signature.

Fabric & Fit

Stanley/Stella Creator 2.0, 100% organic combed ring-spun cotton (GOTS-certified fabric), 180 gsm single jersey, fabric washed. Colour: Black. Medium fit, true to size.