Atoghu Tee, Toghu and Ndop of Cameroon

Modèle portant le tee noir Atoghu, médaillon imprimé effet broderie où le chevron toghu rencontre la bande indigo ndop, Cameroon Grassfields collection par Bana Bilaka

Atoghu · Grassfields Tee No. 04

£36.90

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Before the velvet, the toghu thread was laid on ndop cloth: the first collars and sleeves were stitched onto the indigo. This piece marries the two heritages, the red and gold chevron of the toghu rising over the white and blue grammar of the ndop, the indigo cloth of the Grassfields, from the West to the North-West, recomposed for this emblem, never copied. Two cloths, one house. An embroidery-style print medallion in laterite red, medium indigo, warm gold and ivory on a deep black tee: the signature piece of the collection.

What it means

The ndop is the indigo cloth of the Cameroon Grassfields, shared from the West to the North-West by Bamileke, Bamum and Bamenda hands. Its white pattern is born of technique: the motif is sewn in raphia thread as a resist, the cloth travels to the indigo pits of Garoua for dyeing, and when the stitches are undone the pattern appears, white on blue. The band on this emblem follows that grammar, recomposed as an original pattern, never a copy of any documented cloth. Across it climb three toghu chevrons in laterite red and warm gold: the two great cloths of the Grassfields on one crest.

After the textile and royal traditions of the Cameroon Grassfields: Bitoh et al., Art and Design Review, 2023 (toghu symbols); The Metropolitan Museum of Art and Michael Backman Ltd (ndop technique); Wikipedia “Bamum script”, Yale University Library and African History Extra (the Bamum script, 1896 to 1910); Open Restitution Africa (the return of Ngonnso, announced 27 June 2022); Voix des Jeunes (toghu, ndop, Bamenda).

Part of Collection 03 · Grassfields · The Signature. Emblem No. 04. Dikenga opened the house, the Manden gave it its law, the Grassfields give it its signature.

Fabric & Fit

Stanley/Stella Creator 2.0, 100% organic combed ring-spun cotton (GOTS-certified fabric), 180 gsm single jersey, fabric washed. Colour: Black. Medium fit, true to size.